Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification
The dyes used to produce two Palestinian garments from the British Museum’s collection attributed to the late 19th–early 20th century were investigated by high pressure liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS). Palestinian embroidery is a...
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2025-01-01
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| author | Diego Tamburini Ludovic Durand Zeina Klink-Hoppe |
| author_facet | Diego Tamburini Ludovic Durand Zeina Klink-Hoppe |
| author_sort | Diego Tamburini |
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| description | The dyes used to produce two Palestinian garments from the British Museum’s collection attributed to the late 19th–early 20th century were investigated by high pressure liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS). Palestinian embroidery is a symbol of national identity and the topic of scholarly research. However, little attention has been given to the dyes and how these changed with the introduction of new synthetic formulations in the second half of the 19th century. The results revealed the use of natural indigoid blue and red madder (<i>Rubia tinctorum</i>), in combination with tannins. Yellow from buckthorn (probably <i>Rhamnus saxatilis</i>) and red from cochineal (probably <i>Dactylopius coccus</i>) were found mixed with synthetic dyes in green and dark red embroidery threads, respectively. Early synthetic dyes were identified in all the other colours. These include Rhodamine B (C.I. 45170), Orange II (C.I. 15510), Orange IV (C.I. 13080), Metanil Yellow (C.I. 13065), Chrysoidine R (C.I. 11320), Methyl Violet (C.I. 42535), Malachite Green (C.I. 42000), Fuchsin (C.I. 42510), Auramine O (C.I. 41000) and Methyl Blue (C.I. 42780). As the date of the first synthesis of these dyes is known, the production date of the garments was refined, suggesting that these were likely to be produced towards the end of the 1880s/beginning of the 1890s. The continuous use of historical local sources of natural dyes, alongside new synthetic dyes, is of particular interest, adding rightful nuances to the development of textile-making practices in this region. |
| format | Article |
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| institution | Kabale University |
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| spelling | doaj-art-d0ebcc92f6e2411e9c3d074cb0edf5fd2025-01-24T13:34:23ZengMDPI AGHeritage2571-94082025-01-01812810.3390/heritage8010028Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye IdentificationDiego Tamburini0Ludovic Durand1Zeina Klink-Hoppe2Department of Scientific Research, The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, UKDepartment of Chemistry, Université Toulouse III Paul Sabatier, 31062 Toulouse, FranceDepartment of the Middle East, The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, UKThe dyes used to produce two Palestinian garments from the British Museum’s collection attributed to the late 19th–early 20th century were investigated by high pressure liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS). Palestinian embroidery is a symbol of national identity and the topic of scholarly research. However, little attention has been given to the dyes and how these changed with the introduction of new synthetic formulations in the second half of the 19th century. The results revealed the use of natural indigoid blue and red madder (<i>Rubia tinctorum</i>), in combination with tannins. Yellow from buckthorn (probably <i>Rhamnus saxatilis</i>) and red from cochineal (probably <i>Dactylopius coccus</i>) were found mixed with synthetic dyes in green and dark red embroidery threads, respectively. Early synthetic dyes were identified in all the other colours. These include Rhodamine B (C.I. 45170), Orange II (C.I. 15510), Orange IV (C.I. 13080), Metanil Yellow (C.I. 13065), Chrysoidine R (C.I. 11320), Methyl Violet (C.I. 42535), Malachite Green (C.I. 42000), Fuchsin (C.I. 42510), Auramine O (C.I. 41000) and Methyl Blue (C.I. 42780). As the date of the first synthesis of these dyes is known, the production date of the garments was refined, suggesting that these were likely to be produced towards the end of the 1880s/beginning of the 1890s. The continuous use of historical local sources of natural dyes, alongside new synthetic dyes, is of particular interest, adding rightful nuances to the development of textile-making practices in this region.https://www.mdpi.com/2571-9408/8/1/28natural dyessynthetic dyesliquid chromatographymass spectrometryPalestinian dressembroidery |
| spellingShingle | Diego Tamburini Ludovic Durand Zeina Klink-Hoppe Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification Heritage natural dyes synthetic dyes liquid chromatography mass spectrometry Palestinian dress embroidery |
| title | Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification |
| title_full | Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification |
| title_fullStr | Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification |
| title_full_unstemmed | Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification |
| title_short | Refining the Production Date of Historical Palestinian Garments Through Dye Identification |
| title_sort | refining the production date of historical palestinian garments through dye identification |
| topic | natural dyes synthetic dyes liquid chromatography mass spectrometry Palestinian dress embroidery |
| url | https://www.mdpi.com/2571-9408/8/1/28 |
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