Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin injury, including sunburn, photoaging, and augmented risk of skin cancer, primarily through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that induce oxidative stress. Rosmarinic acid (RA), a natural phenolic compound with antio...

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Main Authors: Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto, Camila Faustino Hiraishi, Gabriela de Argollo Marques, Cassiano Carlos Escudeiro, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa, João Gregório, Catarina Rosado, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco, André Rolim Baby
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-02-01
Series:Antioxidants
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/14/3/274
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author Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto
Camila Faustino Hiraishi
Gabriela de Argollo Marques
Cassiano Carlos Escudeiro
Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa
João Gregório
Catarina Rosado
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
André Rolim Baby
author_facet Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto
Camila Faustino Hiraishi
Gabriela de Argollo Marques
Cassiano Carlos Escudeiro
Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa
João Gregório
Catarina Rosado
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
André Rolim Baby
author_sort Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
collection DOAJ
description Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin injury, including sunburn, photoaging, and augmented risk of skin cancer, primarily through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that induce oxidative stress. Rosmarinic acid (RA), a natural phenolic compound with antioxidant and several other biological properties, has shown promise in mitigating such damage when incorporated into sunscreens. We evaluated RA’s possible interactions and potential to enhance the efficacy of three worldwide known UVB filters—ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), octocrylene (OCT), and ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS). The performance of sunscreens with and without RA (0.1% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>) was analyzed through in vitro and in vivo photoprotective assessments. The HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography—thiobarbituric acid reactive substances—ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol, which quantified oxidative stress reduction in the human stratum corneum, was also used. The in vitro photoprotective assays showed that RA had distinct levels of interactions with the UVB filters. When associated with EHMC, RA exclusively acted in the UVB range (SPF-enhancing effect). Remarkably, for EHS, RA contributed to a higher efficacy profile in the total UV spectrum. OCT-RA was the sample that reached the highest critical wavelength value parallelly to OCT, boosting the in vivo SPF by more than 157% in comparison to OCT. However, its in vitro SPF performance was not affected by the RA addition, being comparable to OCT, EHS, and EHS-RA. Furthermore, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol highlighted RA’s ability to reduce lipid peroxidation, with OCT-RA exhibiting the most notable protective effect. These findings underscore RA’s potential as a multifunctional additive in sunscreen systems, enhancing both photoprotection and oxidative stress mitigation.
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spelling doaj-art-bd4e3a319bb34bb59233c81f45ea71b82025-08-20T02:42:35ZengMDPI AGAntioxidants2076-39212025-02-0114327410.3390/antiox14030274Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB FiltersPedro Ivo de Souza Macedo0Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto1Camila Faustino Hiraishi2Gabriela de Argollo Marques3Cassiano Carlos Escudeiro4Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa5João Gregório6Catarina Rosado7Maria Valéria Robles Velasco8André Rolim Baby9Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilIPclin, Integrated Research, Jundiaí 13201-013, BrazilDepartment of Health Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Federal University of Espírito Santo, São Mateus 29932-540, BrazilCBIOS, Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences & Health Technologies, 1749-024 Lisbon, PortugalCBIOS, Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences & Health Technologies, 1749-024 Lisbon, PortugalDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-000, BrazilExposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin injury, including sunburn, photoaging, and augmented risk of skin cancer, primarily through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that induce oxidative stress. Rosmarinic acid (RA), a natural phenolic compound with antioxidant and several other biological properties, has shown promise in mitigating such damage when incorporated into sunscreens. We evaluated RA’s possible interactions and potential to enhance the efficacy of three worldwide known UVB filters—ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), octocrylene (OCT), and ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS). The performance of sunscreens with and without RA (0.1% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>) was analyzed through in vitro and in vivo photoprotective assessments. The HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography—thiobarbituric acid reactive substances—ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol, which quantified oxidative stress reduction in the human stratum corneum, was also used. The in vitro photoprotective assays showed that RA had distinct levels of interactions with the UVB filters. When associated with EHMC, RA exclusively acted in the UVB range (SPF-enhancing effect). Remarkably, for EHS, RA contributed to a higher efficacy profile in the total UV spectrum. OCT-RA was the sample that reached the highest critical wavelength value parallelly to OCT, boosting the in vivo SPF by more than 157% in comparison to OCT. However, its in vitro SPF performance was not affected by the RA addition, being comparable to OCT, EHS, and EHS-RA. Furthermore, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol highlighted RA’s ability to reduce lipid peroxidation, with OCT-RA exhibiting the most notable protective effect. These findings underscore RA’s potential as a multifunctional additive in sunscreen systems, enhancing both photoprotection and oxidative stress mitigation.https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/14/3/274ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateoctocryleneethylhexyl salicylatesun protection factortape stripping
spellingShingle Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto
Camila Faustino Hiraishi
Gabriela de Argollo Marques
Cassiano Carlos Escudeiro
Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa
João Gregório
Catarina Rosado
Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
André Rolim Baby
Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
Antioxidants
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
octocrylene
ethylhexyl salicylate
sun protection factor
tape stripping
title Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
title_full Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
title_fullStr Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
title_full_unstemmed Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
title_short Enhancing Photoprotection and Mitigating Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum Oxidative Stress: A Multifunctional Strategy Combining Rosmarinic Acid with UVB Filters
title_sort enhancing photoprotection and mitigating ex vivo stratum corneum oxidative stress a multifunctional strategy combining rosmarinic acid with uvb filters
topic ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
octocrylene
ethylhexyl salicylate
sun protection factor
tape stripping
url https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/14/3/274
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