Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties

Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium myrtillus</i> L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential d...

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Main Authors: Milica Martinović, Ivana Nešić, Ana Žugić, Vanja M. Tadić
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-08-01
Series:Plants
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2223-7747/14/15/2374
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author Milica Martinović
Ivana Nešić
Ana Žugić
Vanja M. Tadić
author_facet Milica Martinović
Ivana Nešić
Ana Žugić
Vanja M. Tadić
author_sort Milica Martinović
collection DOAJ
description Bilberry (<i>Vaccinium myrtillus</i> L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential dermocosmetic applications. In this study, extracts of bilberry fruits and leaves were prepared using both conventional solvents (water and 50% ethanol) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as green, biodegradable alternatives. The aim of this study was to examine the UV protective activity and inhibitory potential of those extracts against some enzymes (tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase) that are important in terms of skin conditioning and skin aging. The results of in vitro tests have shown the superiority of NaDES extracts compared to conventional extracts regarding all tested bioactivities. In addition, bilberry leaves extracts were more potent compared to fruit extracts in all cases. The most potent extract was bilberry leaf extract made with malic acid–glycerol, which exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 3.52 ± 0.26 mg/mL), anti-hyaluronidase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 3.23 ± 0.30 mg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 1.84 ± 0.50 mg/mL) activities. The correlation analysis revealed correlation between UV protective and anti-tyrosinase, UV protective and anti-collagenase as well as between anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase activity. UV protection and anti-tyrosinase activity correlated significantly with chlorogenic acid and hyperoside contents in extracts. The extracts with the best activities also demonstrated a good safety profile in a 24 h in vivo study on human volunteers.
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spelling doaj-art-a7be29ff13e845eca14533996cf6475d2025-08-20T03:36:22ZengMDPI AGPlants2223-77472025-08-011415237410.3390/plants14152374Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective PropertiesMilica Martinović0Ivana Nešić1Ana Žugić2Vanja M. Tadić3Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Niš, Boulevard Dr. Zorana Djindjića 81, 18108 Nis, SerbiaDepartment of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Niš, Boulevard Dr. Zorana Djindjića 81, 18108 Nis, SerbiaDepartment for Pharmaceutical Research and Development, Institute for Medicinal Plant Research “Dr. Josif Pančić”, Tadeuša Koscuška 1, 11000 Belgrade, SerbiaDepartment for Pharmaceutical Research and Development, Institute for Medicinal Plant Research “Dr. Josif Pančić”, Tadeuša Koscuška 1, 11000 Belgrade, SerbiaBilberry (<i>Vaccinium myrtillus</i> L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential dermocosmetic applications. In this study, extracts of bilberry fruits and leaves were prepared using both conventional solvents (water and 50% ethanol) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as green, biodegradable alternatives. The aim of this study was to examine the UV protective activity and inhibitory potential of those extracts against some enzymes (tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase) that are important in terms of skin conditioning and skin aging. The results of in vitro tests have shown the superiority of NaDES extracts compared to conventional extracts regarding all tested bioactivities. In addition, bilberry leaves extracts were more potent compared to fruit extracts in all cases. The most potent extract was bilberry leaf extract made with malic acid–glycerol, which exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 3.52 ± 0.26 mg/mL), anti-hyaluronidase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 3.23 ± 0.30 mg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC<sub>50</sub> = 1.84 ± 0.50 mg/mL) activities. The correlation analysis revealed correlation between UV protective and anti-tyrosinase, UV protective and anti-collagenase as well as between anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase activity. UV protection and anti-tyrosinase activity correlated significantly with chlorogenic acid and hyperoside contents in extracts. The extracts with the best activities also demonstrated a good safety profile in a 24 h in vivo study on human volunteers.https://www.mdpi.com/2223-7747/14/15/2374sun protectionanti-tyrosinaseanti-hyaluronidaseanti-collagenaseNaDESanti-age
spellingShingle Milica Martinović
Ivana Nešić
Ana Žugić
Vanja M. Tadić
Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
Plants
sun protection
anti-tyrosinase
anti-hyaluronidase
anti-collagenase
NaDES
anti-age
title Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
title_full Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
title_fullStr Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
title_full_unstemmed Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
title_short Preliminary Analysis of Bilberry NaDES Extracts as Versatile Active Ingredients of Natural Dermocosmetic Products: In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Collagenase, and UV Protective Properties
title_sort preliminary analysis of bilberry nades extracts as versatile active ingredients of natural dermocosmetic products in vitro evaluation of anti tyrosinase anti hyaluronidase anti collagenase and uv protective properties
topic sun protection
anti-tyrosinase
anti-hyaluronidase
anti-collagenase
NaDES
anti-age
url https://www.mdpi.com/2223-7747/14/15/2374
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