Role of Emulsifiers and SPF Booster in Sunscreen Performance: Assessing SPF, Rheological Behavior, Texture, and Stability

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate<sup>®</sup> 80 with Beautyderm<sup>®&...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Miroslava Špaglová, Paula Čermáková, Patrícia Jackuliaková, Juraj Piešťanský
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-06-01
Series:Cosmetics
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/3/118
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Summary:This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate<sup>®</sup> 80 with Beautyderm<sup>®</sup> K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along with the effect of increasing concentrations of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF Booster, was thoroughly evaluated. Spectrophotometric methods were used to determine SPF, while texture analysis and rheological measurements assessed physical characteristics. Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge stress test, and sensory analysis was conducted on the top-performing formulation. The results indicated that the choice of emulsifier and booster concentration significantly influenced SPF values and stability. The influence of booster concentration on textural properties was most significant in formulations containing Beautyderm<sup>®</sup>. Centrifuge testing revealed phase separation in certain formulations. Notably, the formulations that exhibited the greatest stability were those in which Beautyderm<sup>®</sup> was combined with either Polysorbate<sup>®</sup> or Span<sup>®</sup>. Following the stability test results, the cream formulation containing Beautyderm<sup>®</sup> and Polysorbate<sup>®</sup> as emulsifiers was further evaluated through sensory analysis. Independent assessors determined that the sensory attributes of the cream did not undergo significant changes even when zinc oxide was added at a concentration of 1% (<i>w</i>/<i>w</i>) to the formulation. These findings underscore the importance of carefully selecting emulsifiers and boosters to achieve high sun protection efficacy, stability, and desirable sensory properties in sunscreen formulations.
ISSN:2079-9284