Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket

This paper analyzes the labeling and signage of heritage food in northern Italy, which are built through the semiotic and political economic construction of authenticity and tradition. For the small- and medium-sized producers with whom I do linguistic anthropological and ethnographic research, sig...

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Main Author: Jillian Cavanaugh
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Department of Anthropology, University of Chicago 2019-04-01
Series:Semiotic Review
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Online Access:https://semioticreview.com/sr/index.php/srindex/article/view/43
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author Jillian Cavanaugh
author_facet Jillian Cavanaugh
author_sort Jillian Cavanaugh
collection DOAJ
description This paper analyzes the labeling and signage of heritage food in northern Italy, which are built through the semiotic and political economic construction of authenticity and tradition. For the small- and medium-sized producers with whom I do linguistic anthropological and ethnographic research, signaling the small-scale, hands-on, artisanal, and traditional nature of their production is as essential to giving their goods value as high quality foods as are any of the material qualities of the foods themselves. Simultaneously, the circulatory possibilities of late capitalism and representational regimes such as intellectual property shape the economic value of authenticity. This renders signs of manuality, time (i.e., tradition), and place (i.e., locality) available as well to larger-scale producers whose food-making strategies may be highly mechanized and industrial in nature, but who can afford to disseminate, profit from, and protect these signs in their own packaging and labeling. In considering signage and labels in this light, this paper illuminates a paradox: that those who produce ‘authentic’ heritage foods may be the least-well positioned to profit from them within late capitalist food systems.
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spelling doaj-art-5d2cfec70c1947b1bd502f0c6b9aaba72025-08-20T03:09:25ZengDepartment of Anthropology, University of ChicagoSemiotic Review3066-81072019-04-01510.71743/rz24g324Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian SupermarketJillian Cavanaugh This paper analyzes the labeling and signage of heritage food in northern Italy, which are built through the semiotic and political economic construction of authenticity and tradition. For the small- and medium-sized producers with whom I do linguistic anthropological and ethnographic research, signaling the small-scale, hands-on, artisanal, and traditional nature of their production is as essential to giving their goods value as high quality foods as are any of the material qualities of the foods themselves. Simultaneously, the circulatory possibilities of late capitalism and representational regimes such as intellectual property shape the economic value of authenticity. This renders signs of manuality, time (i.e., tradition), and place (i.e., locality) available as well to larger-scale producers whose food-making strategies may be highly mechanized and industrial in nature, but who can afford to disseminate, profit from, and protect these signs in their own packaging and labeling. In considering signage and labels in this light, this paper illuminates a paradox: that those who produce ‘authentic’ heritage foods may be the least-well positioned to profit from them within late capitalist food systems. https://semioticreview.com/sr/index.php/srindex/article/view/43manualityheritage foodItalyauthenticityqualisign
spellingShingle Jillian Cavanaugh
Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
Semiotic Review
manuality
heritage food
Italy
authenticity
qualisign
title Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
title_full Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
title_fullStr Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
title_full_unstemmed Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
title_short Labeling Authenticity, or, How I Almost Got Arrested in an Italian Supermarket
title_sort labeling authenticity or how i almost got arrested in an italian supermarket
topic manuality
heritage food
Italy
authenticity
qualisign
url https://semioticreview.com/sr/index.php/srindex/article/view/43
work_keys_str_mv AT jilliancavanaugh labelingauthenticityorhowialmostgotarrestedinanitaliansupermarket