Observations of Sea‐Swell Wave Reflection From a Steep, Nearshore Bar
Abstract Wave reflection near the beach affects the energy reaching the shore, surfzone wave conditions, and sediment transport. Many prior studies have shown strong reflection of infragravity (0.01 < frequency < 0.05 Hz) wave energy from steep foreshore slopes. Here, swell‐frequency bores wer...
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| Main Authors: | , , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
American Geophysical Union (AGU)
2025-04-01
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| Series: | Earth and Space Science |
| Online Access: | https://doi.org/10.1029/2024EA004176 |
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| Summary: | Abstract Wave reflection near the beach affects the energy reaching the shore, surfzone wave conditions, and sediment transport. Many prior studies have shown strong reflection of infragravity (0.01 < frequency < 0.05 Hz) wave energy from steep foreshore slopes. Here, swell‐frequency bores were observed propagating offshore across a shallow sandbar crest at low tide. Reflection coefficients (ratio of outgoing to incoming energy) estimated from pressure and velocity observations were large (∼0.8) at the frequency of the sea‐swell peak (0.07 Hz), especially at low tide when the water depth on the bar crest relative to that in the trough is smallest. The high observed sea‐swell reflection may have been at least partly owing to interactions of the incident waves with the surfzone bathymetry, which included a steep drop from the bar crest into a narrow bar‐trough at the alongshore location where the offshore bore propagation was observed. |
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| ISSN: | 2333-5084 |