New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations
Abstract Skin oxidation can impair physiological functions and induce skin diseases, such as photoaging and cancer. L-ascorbic acid (L-AA), or vitamin C, is commonly used in cosmetics because it is a potent antioxidant, inhibits melanogenesis, and promotes collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin....
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| Language: | English |
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Universidade de São Paulo
2025-01-01
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| Series: | Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences |
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| Online Access: | http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1984-82502025000100324&lng=en&tlng=en |
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| author | Andressa Costa de Oliveira Ana Lucia Morocho-Jacome Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto André Rolim Baby Maria Valéria Robles Velasco |
| author_facet | Andressa Costa de Oliveira Ana Lucia Morocho-Jacome Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto André Rolim Baby Maria Valéria Robles Velasco |
| author_sort | Andressa Costa de Oliveira |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | Abstract Skin oxidation can impair physiological functions and induce skin diseases, such as photoaging and cancer. L-ascorbic acid (L-AA), or vitamin C, is commonly used in cosmetics because it is a potent antioxidant, inhibits melanogenesis, and promotes collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin. This study developed strategies to improve the stability of L-AA in its pure form with or without caffeic acid (CA) and evaluated its clinical efficacy using an ex vivo method. Oil/water emulsions were prepared with antioxidants and normal stability tests were conducted (various temperatures for 360 days). Antioxidant activity was assessed using a DPPH assay, and L-AA content was quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography. The thiobarbituric acid reactive substances method characterized the inhibition of lipid peroxides in the stratum corneum ex vivo. The formulation F1 (base + 10.0% L-AA) exhibited better L-AA stability over 360 days. The formulations F1 and F2 (base + 10.0% L-AA + 0.2% CA) increased the production of lipid peroxides when applied to the stratum corneum ex vivo and irradiated; however, when not irradiated, they inhibited the production of reactive oxygen species. For greater clinical efficacy of vitamin C on the skin, nighttime use is suggested as well as storage at low temperatures. |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj-art-2707aa1b734e42e19b98ffce1ad9a467 |
| institution | Kabale University |
| issn | 2175-9790 |
| language | English |
| publishDate | 2025-01-01 |
| publisher | Universidade de São Paulo |
| record_format | Article |
| series | Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences |
| spelling | doaj-art-2707aa1b734e42e19b98ffce1ad9a4672025-01-21T07:41:26ZengUniversidade de São PauloBrazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences2175-97902025-01-016110.1590/s2175-97902025e24274New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulationsAndressa Costa de OliveiraAna Lucia Morocho-JacomeTércio Elyan Azevedo MartinsClaudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira PintoAndré Rolim BabyMaria Valéria Robles Velascohttps://orcid.org/0000-0003-4950-8510Abstract Skin oxidation can impair physiological functions and induce skin diseases, such as photoaging and cancer. L-ascorbic acid (L-AA), or vitamin C, is commonly used in cosmetics because it is a potent antioxidant, inhibits melanogenesis, and promotes collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin. This study developed strategies to improve the stability of L-AA in its pure form with or without caffeic acid (CA) and evaluated its clinical efficacy using an ex vivo method. Oil/water emulsions were prepared with antioxidants and normal stability tests were conducted (various temperatures for 360 days). Antioxidant activity was assessed using a DPPH assay, and L-AA content was quantified by high-performance liquid chromatography. The thiobarbituric acid reactive substances method characterized the inhibition of lipid peroxides in the stratum corneum ex vivo. The formulation F1 (base + 10.0% L-AA) exhibited better L-AA stability over 360 days. The formulations F1 and F2 (base + 10.0% L-AA + 0.2% CA) increased the production of lipid peroxides when applied to the stratum corneum ex vivo and irradiated; however, when not irradiated, they inhibited the production of reactive oxygen species. For greater clinical efficacy of vitamin C on the skin, nighttime use is suggested as well as storage at low temperatures.http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1984-82502025000100324&lng=en&tlng=enAscorbic acidCaffeic acidLipid peroxidationCosmetic stabilityTiobarbituric acidAntioxidants |
| spellingShingle | Andressa Costa de Oliveira Ana Lucia Morocho-Jacome Tércio Elyan Azevedo Martins Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto André Rolim Baby Maria Valéria Robles Velasco New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Ascorbic acid Caffeic acid Lipid peroxidation Cosmetic stability Tiobarbituric acid Antioxidants |
| title | New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| title_full | New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| title_fullStr | New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| title_full_unstemmed | New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| title_short | New discoveries of the action of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - Enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| title_sort | new discoveries of the action of l ascorbic acid vitamin c enhanced efficacy in formulations |
| topic | Ascorbic acid Caffeic acid Lipid peroxidation Cosmetic stability Tiobarbituric acid Antioxidants |
| url | http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1984-82502025000100324&lng=en&tlng=en |
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