An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract

The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the...

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Main Authors: Marta Faggian, Silvia Lucchetti, Sara Ferrari, Gabriele De Nadai, Stefano Francescato, Giovanni Baratto, Nicola De Zordi, Silvia-Maria Stanic, Gregorio Peron, Stefania Sut, Alessandra Semenzato, Stefano Dall’Acqua
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2024-11-01
Series:Applied Sciences
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/14/22/10603
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author Marta Faggian
Silvia Lucchetti
Sara Ferrari
Gabriele De Nadai
Stefano Francescato
Giovanni Baratto
Nicola De Zordi
Silvia-Maria Stanic
Gregorio Peron
Stefania Sut
Alessandra Semenzato
Stefano Dall’Acqua
author_facet Marta Faggian
Silvia Lucchetti
Sara Ferrari
Gabriele De Nadai
Stefano Francescato
Giovanni Baratto
Nicola De Zordi
Silvia-Maria Stanic
Gregorio Peron
Stefania Sut
Alessandra Semenzato
Stefano Dall’Acqua
author_sort Marta Faggian
collection DOAJ
description The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO<sub>2</sub> extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector.
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spelling doaj-art-0ebbb782558d46c1bdbb152385ef0f712025-08-20T02:26:54ZengMDPI AGApplied Sciences2076-34172024-11-0114221060310.3390/app142210603An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste ExtractMarta Faggian0Silvia Lucchetti1Sara Ferrari2Gabriele De Nadai3Stefano Francescato4Giovanni Baratto5Nicola De Zordi6Silvia-Maria Stanic7Gregorio Peron8Stefania Sut9Alessandra Semenzato10Stefano Dall’Acqua11Unired srl, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, ItalyUnired srl, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, ItalyUnifarco spa, Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Belluno, ItalyUnifarco spa, Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Belluno, ItalyUnifarco spa, Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Belluno, ItalyUnifarco spa, Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Belluno, ItalySocietà Agricola Moldoi—S.A.M srl, Loc. Maras Moldoi 151/a, 32037 Belluno, ItalyUnired srl, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, ItalyDepartment of Molecular and Translational Medicine, University of Brescia, Viale Europa 11, 25123 Brescia, ItalyDepartment of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padova, Via Marzolo 5, 35131 Padova, ItalyDepartment of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padova, Via Marzolo 5, 35131 Padova, ItalyUnired srl, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, ItalyThe sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO<sub>2</sub> extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO<sub>2</sub> extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector.https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/14/22/10603wild strawberryupcyclingsupercritical carbon dioxide (SCO<sub>2</sub>)5α-reductasecosmetic ingredient
spellingShingle Marta Faggian
Silvia Lucchetti
Sara Ferrari
Gabriele De Nadai
Stefano Francescato
Giovanni Baratto
Nicola De Zordi
Silvia-Maria Stanic
Gregorio Peron
Stefania Sut
Alessandra Semenzato
Stefano Dall’Acqua
An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
Applied Sciences
wild strawberry
upcycling
supercritical carbon dioxide (SCO<sub>2</sub>)
5α-reductase
cosmetic ingredient
title An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
title_full An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
title_fullStr An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
title_full_unstemmed An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
title_short An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
title_sort integrated approach to develop innovative sustainable and effective cosmetic ingredients the case report of fatty acids enriched wild strawberry waste extract
topic wild strawberry
upcycling
supercritical carbon dioxide (SCO<sub>2</sub>)
5α-reductase
cosmetic ingredient
url https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/14/22/10603
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